Second Spin Audio

Buying a used Technics SL-1200MK5 or SL-1210MK5

Same deck, two colours, a few smart upgrades over the MK2. Here's how to check a used SL-1200MK5 or SL-1210MK5, and which controls to put through their paces before you hand over the cash.

Updated

A pair of Technics SL-1200MK5 turntables with a Technics DJ mixer
Photo: Dave Walker from Royal Oak, MI, USA, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

At a glance

Drive
Quartz direct drive
Speeds
33⅓ and 45 rpm
Pitch control
±8%, with pitch reset button
Start-up time
0.7 s to 33⅓ rpm
Brake
Electronic, stop speed adjustable
Tonearm height adjustment
0–6 mm, lockable
Tracking force range
0–4 g
Cartridge weight range
3.5–13 g (with the supplied weights)
Colours
SL-1200MK5 silver, SL-1210MK5 black

What to check before you pay

  1. Voltage label. Start at the rating label on the back. These decks were sold in versions for different mains voltages, so make sure the one in front of you matches your country, or factor a transformer into the price.
  2. Pitch reset. Push the pitch fader away from zero, then press the reset button. The deck should snap straight back to normal speed and the reset indicator should light up. It's the MK5's signature feature, so make sure it works every time.
  3. Speed and strobe. Play a record at 0% pitch on both speeds and watch the strobe dots. They should stand perfectly still. Drifting dots mean the speed is off.
  4. Pitch fader. Slide the pitch fader slowly through its whole travel while a record plays. The tempo should change smoothly and evenly, with no jumps, dead spots or crackle.
  5. Brake speed. Press stop a few times. The platter should come to rest the same way every time. If it stops much slower or faster than you'd expect, the brake speed control may simply have been adjusted by a previous owner, so ask before you assume a fault.
  6. Tonearm and anti-skating. Feel for play in the arm bearings, check that the height ring turns and locks, and make sure the anti-skating dial moves freely through its range.
  7. Cables and sound. With a record playing, gently move the phono and ground cables. Crackle, hum or a channel dropping out means worn wiring or connectors, so price that in.

Reported faults

Problems reported in the sources listed with each item. Not every unit has them, but they are worth asking about.

Worn pitch control
What you notice
Speed is off, or does not follow the pitch fader smoothly.
What the source says
Pitch control contacts are among the parts repair services replace on these decks.
What to check
Use the strobe: at 0% the dots should stand still, and the speed should change smoothly as you move the fader.

Buyer's guide: The Vinyl Factory, "The complete guide to buying Technics SL-1200 turntables second hand" (Jason Kennedy, 2017)

Play in the tonearm bearings
What you notice
The arm wobbles or does not move smoothly.
What the source says
Bearing wear; it can only be checked by feel.
What to check
Lift the arm gently and feel for play. It should move freely and smoothly in both directions.

Buyer's guide: The Vinyl Factory, "The complete guide to buying Technics SL-1200 turntables second hand" (Jason Kennedy, 2017)

Faulty arm controls
What you notice
The arm drifts, slams down or will not lock.
What the source says
The buying guide lists anti-skate, arm lock and the arm lift among the things to check.
What to check
The anti-skate dial should pull the arm outwards, the arm lock should hold, and the lift should lower the arm gently.

Buyer's guide: The Vinyl Factory, "The complete guide to buying Technics SL-1200 turntables second hand" (Jason Kennedy, 2017)

Platter rubber coming away or damaged magnet
What you notice
Rough running or speed problems.
What the source says
The rubber layer under the platter can come away, and the magnet on the platter can be damaged.
What to check
Spin the platter by hand both ways, then lift it off and look at the rubber and the magnet underneath.

Buyer's guide: The Vinyl Factory, "The complete guide to buying Technics SL-1200 turntables second hand" (Jason Kennedy, 2017)

Crackling or failing RCA cables
What you notice
Crackle, or problems that appear when the cables move.
What the source says
RCA cable problems are described as relatively common, with faults at the plug ends and shorts along the cable.
What to check
With a record playing, gently move the cables and plugs. Replacing the cables is a known repair, but price it in.

Buyer's guide: The Vinyl Factory, "The complete guide to buying Technics SL-1200 turntables second hand" (Jason Kennedy, 2017); Repair article: Crossfadr, "Replacing the RCA cables on a Technics SL-1200 turntable" (Alex Baker, 2011)

Signs of poor earlier repairs
What you notice
Missing screws under the deck or platter.
What the source says
Missing screws can point to rough repair work in the past.
What to check
Look underneath the deck and under the platter for missing screws.

Buyer's guide: The Vinyl Factory, "The complete guide to buying Technics SL-1200 turntables second hand" (Jason Kennedy, 2017)

Removed internal earthing (modification)
What you notice
Loud bangs through the system from static.
What the source says
Removing the internal earthing is a popular modification, and can let static build up.
What to check
Ask whether the deck has been modified. Non-factory modifications also tend to reduce resale value.

Buyer's guide: The Vinyl Factory, "The complete guide to buying Technics SL-1200 turntables second hand" (Jason Kennedy, 2017)

Loose headshell
What you notice
The headshell does not clamp firmly.
What the source says
Wear or loose screws at the headshell.
What to check
Fit the headshell and check it locks firmly and the screws underneath are tight.

Buyer's guide: The Vinyl Factory, "The complete guide to buying Technics SL-1200 turntables second hand" (Jason Kennedy, 2017)

1200 or 1210? Pick your colour

Let’s clear this up first, because listings make it confusing: the SL-1200MK5 and SL-1210MK5 are the same turntable. The 1200 is silver, the 1210 is black. Same motor, same controls, same specs. Choose on looks and price, and don’t let anyone charge you extra for one over the other on the basis of features.

What the MK5 brings to the party

Compared with the MK2, the changes are small on paper but very real when you’re mixing:

  • Pitch reset. One press and the deck jumps straight back to normal speed, wherever the fader sits. Handy when you’re switching between records fast.
  • Adjustable brake. Set how quickly the platter stops, with a small screwdriver through a hole in the platter. Want a slow, dramatic wind-down? You can dial it in.
  • More tracking force. The counterweight dial goes up to 4 g instead of 2.5 g, which gives you more room with heavier cartridges.

If none of those matter to you, a good MK2 can be the smarter buy. If they do, the MK5 is the one to hunt down.

Reading a used one before you pay

Like any 1200, an MK5 can have lived a quiet life at home or done hundreds of nights in a booth. Ask the seller for a short video: both speeds with the strobe in view, the pitch fader moving end to end, the pitch reset in action and a few starts and stops. A deck that passes all of that on camera is off to a good start.

What to ask the seller

  • Has the deck been serviced or modified, for example new LEDs, replaced cables or a different tonearm?
  • Is the original headshell included?
  • Does it come with the dust cover and the 45 rpm adapter?

Which version is it?

ModelKey difference
SL-1200MK2No pitch reset button, brake speed not adjustable, tracking force adjustment 0–2.5 g
SL-1200MK5 / SL-1210MK5Pitch reset button, adjustable brake speed, tracking force adjustment 0–4 g. Same deck in silver (1200) or black (1210)

Compare

Manuals

Links open external manual archives or the manufacturer's site. We don't host these files.

Sources