Second Spin Audio

Buying a used Technics SP-10MK2

A quartz-locked direct-drive motor unit with a separate power supply and a quarter-second start. Here's what you actually get with a used SP-10MK2, what you still need to add, and what to check before you pay.

Updated

At a glance

Released
Around 1976
Type
Direct-drive turntable unit with separate power supply
Speed control
Quartz lock (crystal-oscillator phase control)
Speeds
33⅓, 45 and 78 rpm
Start-up time
0.25 s to 33⅓ rpm
Starting torque
6 kg·cm
Braking
Electronic and mechanical
Platter
Die-cast aluminium, 32 cm, 3.0 kg
Wow and flutter
0.025% WRMS (JIS C5521)
Weight
Turntable unit 9.5 kg, power supply 3.8 kg

What to check before you pay

  1. Power supply included. The SP-10MK2 runs from a separate power supply unit. Make sure it's included, that it's the matching unit, and that the connecting cable comes with it. Without it, the deck simply won't run.
  2. Voltage. The catalogue data cited here is for the Japanese 100 V model. Check the rating label on the power supply and make sure it matches your mains, or budget for a transformer.
  3. What else you need. The unit comes without a tonearm, and often without a base. Check exactly what's included (plinth, armboard, tonearm) and price the missing parts in before you get excited about the headline number.
  4. Speeds and strobe. Run 33⅓, 45 and 78 rpm and watch the strobe. With quartz lock doing its job, the markings should stand perfectly still.
  5. Start and stop. Press start and stop several times. The platter should hit speed almost instantly and stop quickly and consistently.
  6. Noise. With the deck running and no record playing, listen close to the platter for whining from the motor or grinding from the bearing.
  7. Plinth. Many SP-10MK2s are sold in custom plinths. Ask what the plinth is made of and who built it, and check the unit is mounted firmly and level.

Reported faults

Problems reported in the sources listed with each item. Not every unit has them, but they are worth asking about.

Ageing electrolytic capacitors
What you notice
Intermittent faults.
What the source says
An owner traced intermittent problems on a 1980 unit to old capacitors and fixed them by replacing them in the deck and power supply. One repairer advises recapping the external power supply and three capacitors on the drive board (C2, C4, C6) rather than the whole deck.
What to check
Ask whether the deck and power supply have been recapped, and what was replaced.

Repair report: HiFiVision forum, "Recapping & overhauling a Technics SP10 MK2" (October 2011); Repair report: StereoNET forum, "SP10 Mk2 recap" (repairer advice, 2020–2021); Repair report: mpbarney, "SP-10 MK2" refurbishment project (2015, updated 2023)

Sticky start/stop and speed switches
What you notice
The platter will not start, or the speed buttons behave inconsistently.
What the source says
On one unit the start/stop switch and the speed switches were gummed up after a spill and had to be replaced.
What to check
Press start/stop and each speed button several times; every press should register.

Repair report: mpbarney, "SP-10 MK2" refurbishment project (2015, updated 2023)

Brake not working
What you notice
The platter does not brake when stopped.
What the source says
On one unit the brake solenoid never worked until a transistor was replaced; its rubber parts had also perished.
What to check
Press stop at 33⅓ rpm: the platter should stop almost instantly.

Repair report: mpbarney, "SP-10 MK2" refurbishment project (2015, updated 2023)

Worn motor thrust pad and old lubricant
What you notice
Bearing noise.
What the source says
One unit had a dimpled thrust pad, degraded dark lubricant and wear on the bearing ball.
What to check
Ask when the motor bearing was last cleaned and re-oiled.

Repair report: mpbarney, "SP-10 MK2" refurbishment project (2015, updated 2023)

Speed adjustment drift
What you notice
Speed slightly off even with quartz lock.
What the source says
On a serviced unit the speed adjustments had drifted just outside specification after about eight years.
What to check
Check the strobe at each speed. If the markings drift, the deck needs adjustment by a technician.

Repair report: mpbarney, "SP-10 MK2" refurbishment project (2015, updated 2023)

A motor unit, not a complete turntable

The SP-10MK2 is built differently from a typical turntable. It’s the drive unit and platter, with a separate power supply, designed to be mounted in a base with the tonearm of your choice. That’s a big part of its appeal for audiophiles who like to build their own record player, and the most important thing to understand when buying one: two listings with the same model name can be completely different purchases depending on the plinth, arm and cartridge that come with them.

Why the numbers are worth getting excited about

Released around 1976, the SP-10MK2 holds its speed with a quartz crystal reference, so it doesn’t drift as you play. It reaches 33⅓ rpm in a quarter of a second, stops just as decisively thanks to electronic and mechanical braking, and spins a 3 kg die-cast aluminium platter. It plays 78s as well as 33⅓ and 45, which opens up a whole world of shellac if that’s your thing.

Budgeting for the full set-up

Because the SP-10MK2 needs a base and a tonearm to make music, think about the total cost from the start. A bare unit at a tempting price can end up costing more than a complete one once you add a plinth, armboard, arm and cartridge. Equally, a unit in a well-built plinth with a good arm can be real value. Weigh up the whole package, not just the motor unit.

What to ask the seller

  • Is the power supply included, and is it the matching unit with its cable?
  • Which voltage is it set for?
  • What’s included: plinth, armboard, tonearm, cartridge?
  • Has it been serviced, and what was done?

Which version is it?

ModelKey difference
SP-10MK2Quartz-locked motor unit with separate power supply, 33⅓/45/78 rpm
SP-10MK2AA later variant exists; differences not covered by the sources used here

Sources